Wind-swept Wellington spends an inordinate amount of time making excuses for its changeable weather. It needn’t. The capital city’s reputation for downpours and occasional howling winds shouldn’t deter you from exploring the inspired food and wine scene bursting the compact metropolis’ seams, as Donna Demaio discovered.
Breakfast
San Francisco’s cuisine has emboldened Simon Pepping (pictured), the owner of Egmont Street Eatery. He recently returned from an insightful trip to California with a grab bag of ideas to introduce at his tucked-away laneway restaurant. The chic eatery is known for a fine breakfast or you can indulge in the cheese, beets and meat burger that took home the top ‘Burger Welly’ prize at Wellington On A Plate (the annual two week food festival) last year. And even Mr Pepping can’t fully explain why the smoked potato hash, pork fennel sausage, slow egg and chili dish is so popular. He figures, “because it tastes great.” “One of our main objectives is to be different. You won’t find eggs Benedict on our breakfast menu. And our pigs’ ears are going down well at the moment,” he says.
15-21 Dixon St, Wellington. www.egmontstreet.co.nz
WHERE ELSE
Field and Green: European soul-food style cuisine – 262 Wakefield St, Wellington www.fieldandgreen.co.nz
Floriditas: Seasonal food and baked goods served in a smart, spacious café – 161 Cuba St, Wellington www.floriditas.co.nz
Lunch
The quest for a great pizza can be arduous, often leading to disappointment. With help from an extended stay in New York, Tom Kirton has returned with the finest dough-making skills. Coupled with quality ingredients and an upbeat attitude, Tommy Millions (at two take-away outlets in the heart of the city) is a fun place to grab a slice. Favorites include the “pepperoni” and the “porker”.
105 Courtney Place, Te Aro, Wellington and 142 Featherston Street,Te Aro, Wellington. www.tommymillions.co.nz
WHERE ELSE
Slim Davey’s Friendly Neighbourhood Saloon: new kid on the block. Laid back, eclectic décor with great burgers and excellent wine bar – 18 Majoribanks St, Mount Victoria, Wellington.
Olive: Outdoor grill, garden dining and new bar. Known for its gnocchi – 170 Cuba St, Te Aro, Wellington. www.oliverestaurant.co.nz
Coffee
“The more you learn about coffee, the more there is to know – so that’s why we’ve created The Beanery,” says Mojo founder and managing director Steve Gianoutsos. At the waterfront café, you can try out new (ish) brewing methods such as Steampunk (there’s bubbles, suction and pumping involved), enjoy free tasting sessions or attend a barista training course. According to Mr Gianoutsos, Wellington has more cafés per capita than New York – “so it’s a dense playground for discovering coffee.” To accompany your coffee, classic Kiwi fare includes cheese scones or caramel slices. Or you can experiment with the emerging trend of savoury paired with caffeine. Perhaps a smoked fish and beer caviar open sandwich while sipping the Ruvuma AA Tanzanian soft brew coffee?
180 Lambton Quay, Wellington. www.mojocoffee.co.nz
WHERE ELSE
Prefab: Eatery, coffee roaster and community hub. Specialty is baked goods served warm. 14 Jessie Street, Wellington www.pre-fab.co.nz
Fidel’s cafe: Street cool. Great coffee. 234 Cuba Street, Wellington. www.fidelscafe.com
Dinner
A hotel restaurant meal may not immediately appeal and yet you can dine with confidence at Chameleon at The InterContinental. The seasonal dishes are portioned between starter and main sizes by Chef Paul Limacher and for this reason, two plates make up a meal. There’s New Zealand scallops, celeriac purée, black pudding, apple, parsley and truffle oil salad. And the duck confit, carrot purée, walnut soil, mache, orange caviar and Moi Moi chips has proven popular. It’s a stylish menu in upscale surrounds.
2 Grey St, Wellington. www.intercontinental.com/wellington
WHERE ELSE
Charley Noble Eatery and Bar: possibly the best steak in the city. Watch chefs work the fire pits. n 1 Post Office Square, Wellington www.charleynoble.co.nz Hillside Kitchen: New Nordic Kitchen inspired cuisine. Deli by day, prix fixe eatery by night – 241 Tinakori Rd, Thorndon, Wellington. www.hillsidekitchen.co.nz
Ortega Fish Shack and Bar: Upscale restaurant known for excellent seafood, including fresh Kaipara Pacific oysters – 16 Majoribanks St, Mount Victoria, Wellington. www.ortega.co.nz
Drink
Garage Street Project has always been ahead of the pack when it comes to craft beer. In 2011, it was the first craft beer brewery in the city. Now there are loads – competing for any adventurous palate. Garage project co-founder Pete Gillespie says he’s not a fan of stunt beers which are designed to shock. And yet, there are eight new beers on their way, with ingredients such as pineapple sage, dried breadfruit or plantain.
68 Aro St, Aro Valley, Wellington. www.garageproject.co.nz
WHERE ELSE
The Hawthorn Lounge: The bartenders speak with tenderness of the craft of cocktail making. Gorgeous leather lounges in a dimly lit, intimate setting – Upstairs 82 Tory St, Wellington. www.hawthornlounge.co.nz
The Library: Tucked away bar with a fine dessert menu – Level 1, 53 Courtney Place, Wellington. www.thelibrary.co.nz
